i have a problem when i cut loose. i can’t stop swings on big walls. i know it is a combination of locking off and core but the thing is my core feels fine. i’ve been doing so much leg raises (yes, straight-armed and when i can, on the wall using actual holds) and campus board. i don’t have…
Try cutting loose doing ARC on warm ups? If your core is fine, then it’s about the fingers. Sometimes we have to force the crimp so that we stay on the wall.
The core PT that you do seems fine. But it’s about applying it on the wall, whereby it takes more effort to control the off center gravity feeling, or take into account the direction of the holds. That also means locking midway movement. Allows you to control ur body more through the lock, but not overlocking such that u lose it and can’t go for the next hold.
There’s always a moment “before we let go” off our feet. Those moments, I learn to hold my handholds tighter. Haha. Really! Cos during hand boards, etc. we are in relax mode (don’t close crimp mentality). But during climbing, it’s when we should “never let go”.
Yuji and obi san coming down to Singapore for Boulderactive 2013 in August! Haha. Its gonna be big man! Cant wait!
Means gotta win this round again to get to go for The North Face Cup again? Heh.